A few weeks ago we decided to do a quick weekend trip to Copenhagen. We had heard great things about it as a city and wanted to check it out before the weather got too cold and the days too short.
The atmosphere in Copenhagen struck us as very cool (not in a pretentious way though, just like lots of cool cafes and interesting places to stroll around), laidback, friendly, safe, clean, and welcoming. It has an insanely huge biking population — more than half the residents of Copenhagen use their bikes as their primary transportation. You see all kinds of bikes with various attachments: baskets, huge crates to cart around groceries or children, trailers attached for babies to ride in, etc. The bike lanes are large and very well marked and safe — it’s as if they are another lane on the road just like a lane for cars. And while lots of people chain their bikes up when they park them, I also noticed many that were not locked up and yet remained in the same spot (not stolen) for multiple days. That gave me a little clue as to the safety and trust among people in the city.
Denmark has frequently been named the happiest country in the world, and it’s easy to see why. According to a report from the Happiness Institute, some of the factors that go into measuring a country’s happiness are: trust (in fellow citizens and in the government), security in life (such as that provided by socialized education, medicine, and other benefits), wealth, job satisfaction, work/life balance, democracy, freedom, and social cohesion among the society’s different groups. Denmark ranks very high on all these factors (as do the other Scandinavian countries, as well as Switzerland and Canada).
I found this fascinating! In some ways, I would think countries that have such long dark winters would be more prone to unhappiness, but the Danes even have a solution for this: the concept of “hygge” (hooga) which translates to coziness. Hygge means creating a warm atmosphere (often with candle light or cozy decorative spaces) and enjoying time with the people around you. They combat the long winter with “hygge” — sitting around a big table with friends drinking wine and discussing life, snuggling up by a fire, or the millions of twinkling lights in Tivoli (especially around Christmas time) are all quintessential “hygge.” It also seems that you can create “hygge” in warmer months too, like with a bbq, picnic in the park, or outdoor concert, so don’t fret if, like us, you visit Denmark when it’s not peak winter/darkness season) 😊
Another thing that stood out was the level of “kid friendliness” in the city (this is something we’re always on the lookout for with our two little guys). Being the home of both Lego and Hans Christian Andersen, I suppose Denmark has a natural place in the hearts of children. But even spots you wouldn’t typically think would be kid friendly were. While waiting for our luggage in the baggage claim, there was a small play area made of Lego for the kids to enjoy. I’d never seen something like this before, but how clever to have something for the kids to do while parents wait for their bags! And even looking on the websites for some nicer restaurants, it seemed kids were welcome and embraced (we didn’t end up dining in any of them but it was cool to know the possibility was there). It seemed like one of the reasons behind including and welcoming kids is the Danish egalitarianism — the idea that everyone (including a child) is a person and deserves respect and to enjoy and experience life (whether that’s in a specific “kid” environment or joining adults in their world).
Another thing we observed with kids was a level of independence and freedom. While in the park one day, there was a large group of children (I think from a school) playing. The playground didn’t have the usual swings and slides and climbing structures we’re used to, but instead had a variety of logs to climb, big hammock-like swings (where the kids were rocking each other very wildly!), and some rocks to climb and jump off. The kids just ran around shrieking in delight and (presumably because I couldn’t understand Danish) creating their own made up games and stories. A group of boys was actually battling each other and pushing, kicking, rough housing for awhile; the adults stood by and watched and didn’t intervene as the boys all appeared to be having fun (I know in the states anyway that kind of play would never be permitted and the teachers would have hovered much more). It was just really interesting to see how kids in a different country –with different norms and values –play.
So during our few days there, we had a great time just walking all around the city, taking in the various architecture, cute streets, canals, and cafes. Two out of our three days were gorgeous weather so we were able to do a ton of walking (our legs were definitely sore by the end of the days!) One of my favorite areas was Nyhavn, an area of colorful buildings next to the water where you can sit outside and have a delicious fish meal. You can get on a boat there, as well, and do a cruise around the harbor and canals, but we didn’t end up doing it.
A few other highlights were: visiting the flagship Lego store (the boys were in heaven!), climbing up to the top of Round Tower where you have amazing views of the city, having some delicious food (very fresh and well prepared!) and of course visiting Tivoli Gardens!
Tivoli is a large amusement park that is a classic part of Copenhagen. It had a lot of great rides, which Isaac especially loved, as well as an awesome playground, gorgeous twinkling lights (and supposedly they add even more at Christmas!), and a ton of really delicious (some even gourmet) restaurants — all in all, a very classy and enjoyable for the whole family experience!
We also really enjoyed the apartment and neighborhood we stayed in. Our airbnb was super kid-friendly (the man who owns it has three kids) — filled with toys (Legos galore!), bunk beds, and an outdoor courtyard with swings and other toys. It was hard to drag the boys out to explore as they were having such fun in the apartment! And the area it was in, Frederiksberg, is just a few metro stops outside the city center, so was very easy to access but had a more leafy residential feel. A huge park and the zoo in Frederiksberg, as well as lots of nice cafes and restaurants, made it a really great base for exploring Copenhagen, especially with the kids. It was a fabulous little trip and I’d love to go back again sometime!
Our next trip coming up is to London, which we are very excited for! My parents are meeting us there and we’ll all get to visit my uncle and aunt, Malcolm and Martha, and explore the wonderful city of London! Stay tuned!
The fab kids’ room in the apartment complete with bunk beds and tons of toys
Eating dinner in the courtyard of the apartment (swing set in the background)
We happened upon the Copenhagen half marathon while walking around (isaac liked the runner in Spider-Man costume) 
Rosenborg Palace, which houses the Danish Crown Jewels
A lovely park next to Rosenborg Palace
street scene
More half marathon runners
The beginning of Stroget, which is the world’s longest pedestrian shopping street. Has every high end store you can think of (Louis Vouitton, Hermes, Burberry, etc) and was fun to stroll along. Also the flagship Lego store is on Stroget
Walking down Stroget
Flagship Lego store!
Rafi playing at the apartment
Hundreds of bikes parked outside a metro station
Rafi climbed up the entire Round Tower…
…meanwhile, isaac fell asleep in the stroller
Some views of Copenhagen from the top of Round Tower 
Round Tower from the outside
Walking around
Interesting art installation
Eating a Danish danish (along with coffee and chocolate milk) at one of the many great bakeries/cafes
Another cool cafe we stopped in called Coffee Collective, housed in an old factory and with roasting facilities as well as a cafe
Strolling along beautiful canals
I tried to capture a lady on her bike with a big crate holding her child
Loved the colorful buildings of Nyhavn!
We had a delicious fish meal next to the water in Nyhav
You could get a beer to go, so why not? 😊
Loads of people on bikes 
These bikes were parked outside our apartment for days and no one took them
Tivoli!
The awesome playground at Tivoli
Jeff and Isaac rode this roller coaster 12 times!
Gorgeous sparkling lights throughout Tivoli
In Frederiksberg Park, right near our apartment
In Frederiksberg Park there is a pacifier tree where kids can come leave their pacifiers as a sort of ritual when they are done with them
The playground at Frederiksberg Park
The boys rough housing
Frederiksberg street scene
Outside the apartment 
Mural in Frederiksberg
A typical open face sandwich in Copenhagen called smorrobrod. It can have meat, shrimp, egg, potatoes, etc. Delish!
dublingers 